"Hello Enrico,
I am new to your site, and as I was looking for Maserati information around the web, I was addressed to you. I really like it, and it loks that there are lots of people exchanging ideas and opinions around the world.
Is there a "live" forum that I can post my questions ?
I have a Maserati 3200 GT 2000 model, and also bought a 1991 Shamal last week that is in good condition, but is standing for four years. I haven't started the engine, as I need to do some preventive maintenance first.
I would appreciate any information on the Shamal, tech specs, as well as your advice on were I can get some spares (apart from dealers...)
Thanks,
Steve." |
"FROM A FELLOW SHAMAL OWNER - I ALSO HAVE A 1991 MODEL.
WITH THESE CARS, FOR THE FIRST SERVICE AFTER 4 YEARS OF STANDING STILL, I WOULD ONLY GO TO THE OFFICIAL MASERATI DEALER. LATER YOU COULD CONSIDER GOING ELSEWHERE FOR SMALL THINGS, BUT GARAGES WHO THINK THEY KNOW WHAT THEY ARE DOING - AND DON’T - CAN VERY QUICKLY BECOME VERY VERY EXPENSIVE. I SPEAK FROM UNFORTUNATE EXPERIENCE WITH THE 97 GHIBLI GT I USED TO HAVE.
You should perform a standard 10,000 km service no matter the stated mileage.
Change the cambelt. After 3 years it should be changed no matter how little it has run.
Make sure that the mechanic REALLY knows how to mount the cambelt tighteners and adjust the engine after a cambelt change (Maserati main dealer). DO NOT IGNORE THE “CHECK ENGINE” LIGHT ON THE DASHBOARD IF IT COMES ON AFTER A CAMBELT CHANGE.
The light is a diagnostic which analyses the exhaust at the Lambda Sonde - and may mean nothing, but can also indicate that the valves are incorrectly adjusted, which can have serious conseqences such as a bent valve stems or a valve touching a piston.
Have the car diagnosed on the Maserati main dealer computer to see if it reports any faults. The adjustable shocks could be a problem (red light blinking consistently on the suspension adjustment panel on the transmission tunnel) - but if the Koni shocks diagnose a problem they will automatically set themselves in position 4 (sport) - so if you can live with a hard ride, then you don’t need to fix them - it is an expensive proposition.
Make sure the brakes are given special attention - make sure they are not sticking and that there is no water in the brake fluid.
Make sure there is fresh oil in the differential, and that all seals are okay. The differential is mechanical, will provide up to 100% lock and is a weak point on these cars.
Check if the car charges correctly (pos. 13-14 on the instrument) and then check the alternator. On these 'biturbo' cars, the alternator is mounted low in the engine compartment ('Patento Maserati') so that it wil clog with dirt, damp and dust thrown up from the road.
Look for crack(s) on the engine block where the air/con compressor is mounted. The factory compressor mounting is a poor construction which transmits vibration. There is a “fix it” kit available from Maserati.
Have your turbo pressure checked. The needle should readily flip up in the yellow area to touch the red on hard acceleration. There should not be a smell of gasoline after hard acceleration. Some filters wil need cleaning, blow off valves will stick after extended period standing still, and some hoses may need replacing.
You may have clutch shudder and jerk. This happens easily on these cars if the clutch has been overheated and it does this easily. Only fix is a new clutch, which will start to do the same again in 15-20,000 km. If you can learn to shift smoothly (especially from standstill), then live with it and see if it gets worse and then change the clutch. Remember –city driving was never a priority on these cars.
Do NOT run the engine on a Shamal above 4,000 rpm for extended periods. Go up to 4,700-5,000 for short acceleration bursts only. The car has a flat plane crankshaft (this was changed for the V8 Quattroporte installation, and of course the 3200GT, and I know of at least one Shamal which has had a Quattroporte EVO engine installed). The engine will vibrate itself to pieces internally if run at too high an rpm. Most wrecked Shamal engines have been destroyed this way.
After driving ALWAYS be sure to let the car idle AT LEAST 2 MINUTES before turning off the ignition. The air/con compressor is mounted right in front of the right-hand turbocharger, cutting off cooling air. The right turbocharger will therefore always run quite hot. If you switch off the ignition too soon you will fry the right hand turbo.
Let me know how you progress!
Peter.
1991 Shamal
2004 Coupe Cambiocorsa." |
"Dear Enrico,
Hope you're well.
Here are my experiences and thoughts on the Shamal. Hope I can help Steve from Greece and Peter from Denmark.
First don't forget that the Shamal is a 'Biturbo' so all the problems related with this series are also present on the Shamal.
The fuse box, the alternator and the bad contacts on the Koni suspension are for sure items to look for.
Even if any fault is experienced. The alternator must be overhauled and cleaned. The pointer in the voltimeter must be on top of the 14V mark when the engine is in motion. Never above or below. This gauge is somehow easy to give bad
readings, mostly because of poor contacts inside the Borletti instrument cluster. So fix the alternator and if the pointer doesn't stay on top of the 14V mark, clean the contacts of the gauge. ATTENTION! Although easy to reach the
back of the Borletti cluster, this is a job to be performed by a relaxed mind and experienced hands.
About the Borletti instruments, I must say that this is one of the Shamal problems.
For sure every Shamal will suffer from a bad speedo reading. If the needle "flicks" and the partial counter starts to go crazy, you will hear some noise from inside and afterwards a smell of burned electronic components. This means a burnt out diode, tension rectifier and a resistence. If you turn off the ignition the burning stops, and the electronic plate that feeds the gauge must be repaired. Two of components are easy to find in any electronic shop but the Motorola 32C
rectifier is not that easy.
All the Borletti instruments will suffer this problem. I've seen it happen on a '93 Spyder 4V, my Shamal and also a 95 Ghibli!!! The ruined components are all the same and easy to substitute. ATTENTION, if you don't hear or smell anything strange but still the needle "flicks", look at the speed sensor at the differential body.
Other problem with the Shamal are the exhaust manifolds, they are prone to cracks. From my point of view, this happens because of bad driving, stopping the engine after pushing it, not waiting some minutes. But most of the time I think that the exhaust manifolds develop small cracks because of water entering the air ducts on the bonnet. Strange isn't it?? But if you drive and then stop to wash your car, the water will reach the exhaust manifolds, with time you will have a cracked manifold.
All the Biturbos with air ducts on the bonnet suffer from this problem. Even the 3200 GT. If it is the left-hand side it can be solved, it is a four days work. If it is the right-hand side, my God!! It is a pain in the a...! You will hate your Maserati!!
Regarding the Peter thought, about the 4,000 RPM limit, I don't fully agree. From my experince these V8s are strong and work better if well pushed. Of course, like any other make engine, one must know how to drive a sports car. If you do 1,000 kms on the limit again and again, probably your engine will end quickly.
But I've never seen a V8 broken because of the "flat" crankshaft. IF you have the oil level on top and the engine temperature is okay you will not have problems. At least from my experience. Never exceed the RPM limit!!
Regarding the turbo pressure needle it must reach the yellow zone not the red and must stay there if you keep on accelerating.
Other problem is the differential, Steve look for small leaks. They are not a huge problem as long as you keep the Diff. oil on top. These leaks appear because the differential can't cope with the power provided, the temperature is so high inside that it blows the rubber rings. Get them fixed and learn how to drive with this Ranger differential.
Never do a racing departure, burning your tires, you will like it but not the Ranger differential!!
If some noises are heard when driving, going side to side of an EMPTY road, then you have problems inside the "body" with pinions and clutches. A rebuild is needed.
The clutch is also an issue to look after, but only if you feel it is needed. The pedal must be hard to press but the shifting must be pricise and smooth. If you hear a "BUMP/CLACK" noise when shifting first/reverse gear and at the same
time the differential gets stuck, it is "normal". Just press the pedal and shift the gear, don't leave your foot on the pedal. RELEASE THE PEDAL SMOOTHLY!! Once you learn this, you will love the way it works.
All the noises from the differential when driving on a straight line happen because some Loctite is missing on the shaft into the differential body.
NOTE: IF YOU THINK THE SHAMAL CLUTCH IS A PROBLEM, YOU SHOULD TRY THE LAMBORGHINI DIABLO's or McLaren F1's!!
Another important item to fix is the rubber ring in the metal plate near the pedals.
Go inside and look at the end of the steering shaft. You will find a metal plate that guides the shaft. For sure you'll have a broken ring or even not present. I've seen a lot of Biturbos with this problem, some were with less 3mm in the
shaft!! The metal plate is harder and "eats" the shaft. Fix this right away. It can be dangerous driving without the ring. It is amazing how the ride and comfort gets fantastic with this improvement.
Another thing to look is the Kat. body. It is the lowest part of the Shamal. So, somewhere in time it makes contact with the road or side walks or bumps.
By now Steve is finding someone to keep the Shamal!! I bet.
But no, Steve don't do that. You will never find a car like that. It is awesome, wild and it goes directly into your blood circulation. Becoming part of you. Never forget that it is one of the rarest "modern" Biturbos, only 65 were made.
Regarding replacement parts, this is a serious subject. Maserati doesn't have most of the parts for the body - small grilles for the front spoiler are not available, the darker rear lights are not available...
But for the engine I think that it isn't a problem right now (try getting hold of a crankshaft! - Enrico).
So, is the Shamal an easy car to live with? I must say yes. If you treat it right it will be your friend forever.
I'll be driving mine from the 26th this month, from Portugal to Modena and Maranello where I will have a Ferrari factory tour on the 29th. I will make a diary and report to Enrico to be posted on the site. I bet that the Shamal will be ready for the challenge.
Regards,
Miguel." |